Human Skull In Canyon De Chelly (By Sublime Dharma on Flickr)

‘The Long Walk’ is etched into the memory of the Navajo Nation as a time of death and defeat when many died during the forced migration from their ancestral home of the Canyon De Chelly area of northern Arizona, 300 miles south to Fort Sumner, New Mexico.

Stanley Stewart, writing a travel piece in The Times about this most magnificent part of the American south west, gives a great summary of this period in American history - the 1860s - now looked back on with a sense of shame.

To the Indians of the American Southwest - the Navajo, the Apache, the Hopi and numerous others - the great ellipse of red-rock country between the Rio Grande and the Colorado River is the sacred land of their own beginnings. It was here that the first of their ancestors climbed through the sipapu, the hole in the earth, to emerge in this world.

At the heart of the region is an area known today as the Four Corners, for the four states that meet here - Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico. It is one of the emptiest and most dramatic parts of the continent. To the west, it abuts the Grand Canyon.

To the north, it fades towards the surreal rock for­mations of Monument Valley, which have played a starring role in countless films, from John Ford’s Stagecoach to Back to the Future III. And occupying the largest part of it is the Navajo Nation, a swathe of country almost the size of Scotland.

Read the comments written by readers and you understand the mixed feelings today about the ‘genocide’ of the native American tribes during the period of westward expansion. The strongly held views are wildly divergent.

Cowboy Country sits at the heart of this region and I’d highly recommend a first hand visit to many of the sites mentioned. For now though take in this set of Flickr photos by Sublime Dharma of the Canyon De Chelly and Hopi Reservation:


Back in the days of the Great Depression, the US National Parks Service was persuaded by Charles E. Peterson, a young Park Service landscape architect, to create a new programme to generate work for jobless architects, draughtsmen and photographers.

And so the the Historic American Buildings Survey was born, its’ mission: “documenting a representative sampling of America’s architectural heritage“.

Now I love American history and love the access the web gives to search these historic databases. My first search turned up several treasures (I use the word loosely) in the city of Holbrook, Arizona, the city some 10 miles southwest of Cowboy Country.

Holbrook has a rich western history and an interesting mix of characters who were active during the second half of the nineteenth century when cattlemen and sheep ranchers roamed the vast lands around the soon-to-be Navajo County seat.

The HABS database has an entry for the Armijo House located at 301 Montano Street, Holbrook. Although it wasn’t built until 1915, the simple adobe style construction and freestanding water tower make it the most interesting building in the CF Perkins subdivision south of the Little Colorado River:

Armijo House Holbrook (Copyright HABS 1993)

The house was originally built by the Armijo family “a pioneer group of Hispanic northern Arizona farmers and ranchers”. To learn more about the history and view another dozen black and white photos check out the report written by historian Robert G Graham on the HABS database.

I only wish I’d had the opportunity to know about this house and the other features of the city before my visit in January this year. If you are passing through and are able to send a photo or report of the location (16 years after the report was drafted) then I’d love to find out if the house is still standing.


If there’s one thing I miss downunder it’s decent TV shows - sure NZ has the usual crop of American imports including House, Lost and numerous others - but you don’t get so much of Channel 4’s output including the Essex boy chef himself, Jamie Oliver.

So what do I find I’m missing on TV this week? Part two of the foodie’s fabulous American road trip in the Kerouac style but probably featuring far more restaurants.

The Times features a selection of southwestern influenced recipes to make up for it: Flavoursome food from Arizona. Looks like I’ll have to investigate more options for tricking the 4oD system into letting me watch or else wait for the DVD.


The tale of Commodore Perry Owens, Apache County (and later Navajo County) Sheriff, as told by the 50s era Collins Bumper Cowboy Book of Thrilling Western Stories. A more factual re-telling of the Blevins Gang incident will follow:

Commodore Perry Owens - Sixty seconds in Holbrook, Arizona (1)

In the long and honourable list of the law enforcement officers who helped to tame the old wild west, there are many names that are better known than that of Commodore Perry Owens, but it is doubtful if even such men as Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterton, or Wild Bill Hickock were braver men than the strangely named sheriff of Apache County, Arizona. It is also doubtful if any of the more celebrated sheriffs and marshals ever achieved anything like the single-handed exploit that Owens pulled off one September day in 1887.

Commodore Perry Owens - Commodore was his real name and not a title or nickname - had been a cowboy and an lndian Fighter and when, in 1887, the more sober citizens of North Arizona were searching around for someone to take on the formidable task of cleaning up that part of the state, they decided that Owens was the man for the job. At first sight, he hardly appeared a proper type for such a task. He had a smooth, handsome, boyish face with a fine, silky moustache. His voice was soft and his manner inoffensive. His long hair hung down almost to his waist. He was not particularly tall and he was slimly built. In appearance he was so far from the rootin’-tootin’ kind of officer that most people reckoned he could not be a good 1aw man at all. Then one morning on September 4th, 1887, Sheriff Owens rode into the tough town of Holbrook. Ironically enough, in view of what we to happen that afternoon, he we merely carrying out routine official duties connected with the summoning of jurymen.

Commodore Perry Owens - Sixty seconds in Holbrook, Arizona (3)

All thought of routine duties vanished, however, when Owens was informed that Andy Cooper had also ridden into town that morning. Cooper was a bad man of the worst type, brutal, boastful and fast with a gun. He had already several killings to his discredit, but what interested Owens more was the fact that a warrant had previously been issued for Cooper’s arrest on a rustling charge. So far, no one had been found who had enough courage to serve this warrant but Owens decided to change all that. He found out where Cooper was staying and set off, alone, to arrest him.

Now had Cooper been alone as well, the job would have been dangerous enough. But Cooper had company.  With him, in his mother’s house, were his half-brother, John Blevins, and Mose Roberts, both of whom were almost as bad as their leader.  In addition, there was another half-brother called Sam Houston Blevins who, although only sixteen, was already following in the crooked family footsteps. All of them were at home when Sheriff Owens walked up the path and knocked on the door. Andy Cooper opened the door with his left hand, his right being occupied with a six-shooter. At the same time, a door in the side of the house opened and John Blevins, also armed, with a gun in his hand, peered out. Owens was between two fires but he gave no sign of anxiety.

“Cooper,” he announced. “I want you.”

The rustler tried to stall but Owens was standing for no nonsense. Then finally the rustler went for his guns. Two shots rang out simultaneously. Cooper missed, but Owens, firing a Winchester from the hip, shot the rustler through the body. As Cooper staggered off, mortally wounded, Owens whirled round and shot John Blevins in the shoulder. He then backed away from the house and awaited further developments. He had not long to wait. Mose Roberts came leaping out of a window, gun in hand, ready to carry on the debate with hot lead. Owens moved slightly, taking advantage of the cover offered by a cart, then once again he cut loose with his deadly Winchester, the gun which, according to the Westerners, “fired all week, including Sundays without reloading.” Mose Roberts staggered, dropped his revolver, and went lurching away round behind the house.

Commodore Perry Owens - Sixty seconds in Holbrook, Arizona (2)

Meanwhile, inside the house, the sixteen-year-old Sam Houston Blevins had gone berserk. As Owens took toll of his friends, one after the other, the boy ran around pleading for someone to let him have a gun. The wounded John, realising no doubt that they were up against something special in Commodore Perry Owens, refused to let his brother have his gun. Cooper, who was dying, was less capable of refusing, so the young man seized Cooper’s gun and went rushing out to do battle. As he was in the act of firing it, another bullet from the lawman’s Winchester took him through the heart and sent him sprawling face down in the dirt. The battle was over. One man was killed outright, two were mortally wounded, and one, the lucky one, had a bullet in his shoulder. The time taken, from the first shot by Cooper until the final deadly shot by Commodore Perry Owens was about one minute.

Commodore Perry Owens died in 1919 at the age of 66. He had had a long life filled with violent action and adventure. When he looked back on it, it is possible that the time he recalled most clearly was not a day here or a week there but a certain period of sixty seconds, one September afternoon, in the cattle town of Holbrook, Arizona.

THE END

Do you think Sheriff Owens’ actions were justified? That’s a question to be discussed in the follow up post to come. Plus I have photos of the Blevins House as it looks today in modern day Holbrook and the county courthouse building which houses a great frontier history museum.


Thanks to Gapminder data you can now watch the real-time settlement of the US from the era of the founding fathers in Virginia through to the western states in the 18th century and beyond.

Visit the link for the data on ‘US farm land (acreage per person)’ and then hit the play button bottom left of the Flash style interface.

Western US settlement farm acreage data

The chart will then whiz you from 1610 through to the present day with colourful dots appearing as and when records of farms began to be stored I’m guessing.

A great way to visualize the settlement of the US as westward expansion took hold:


A bobcat walks into a bar…

Posted by: Chris Hails in Arizona No Comments »

What happened next was not a joke but “pandemonium”: two or three minutes of chivalry, cellphone cameras and people jumping on top of pool tables to get out of the way.

When it was over, two people were scratched and bleeding, and the bobcat was gunned down by police in a parking lot on Main Street.

It’s not the way I’d want to spend my Tuesday night in Cottonwood I have to say, but the Arizona Republic piece about “a barroom story that is sure to become legend” made me sit up and take notice because:

  1. the comments from concerned readers are superb, suggesting Arizona should quickly repeal the ban on handguns in ‘establishments that serve liquor’ - just in case there’s a wave of further rabid bobcat invasions;
  2. we drove past that very bar not that long ago on the way to historic mining town Jerome and the area seemed quite suburban, not prone to wild animal attacks!
  3. it’s not far from my favourite state park, the Dead Horse Ranch
  4. To get the full flavour of the event watch the video below which includes CCTV footage from the bar.

    I love the way people reach straight for the camera phone to get a snap. Are they updating their Facebook status with ‘just been attacked by a bobcat’ or perhaps looking to take the ‘What wild animal is in my bar’ quiz?

    And at least the lawmen in town didn’t face sudden death by angry gunslinger - taking no chances and blasting the critter emerging from the saloon with 3 shots.